I’ve experienced it again. I’ve been bewitched by the Gingerline Effect. It began as it always does, with an unromantic imperative – the text message. In an ideal world the instructions as to how we were to proceed an hour before we needed to arrive would be delivered by an amber coloured collared dove. Or in retrospect, in the case of this particular occasion, something with talons that flies by night.
I am luckier than most because my journey along the orange liveried Overground that acts as a conduit the epicurian odyssey always starts at the very best station on the line, Crystal Palace. The sublime sweep of that one must descend in order to gain access to the platform is an adventure in itself and perhaps reveals just about the only fault in the entire operation – no destination platform can ever match its grandeur. It’s a heck of a way to begin.
Canonbury, the message said. Our personal tangerine serpent shed the southern back garden clutter and blossomed railway banks, slithering through industrial yards under a spreading sky ascending to rooftop level, cleaving posh smoked glass balconies and contrasting decrepit upper retail premises imprinted with ghost signs. The bookseller, as ever my date, surveyed the landscape over his shoulder as it slipped away: “Blimey,” he murmured. “The North.”

It actually felt a little bit like the movie version of Brooklyn though as we clanked our bottles towards Newington Green, the elevated terraces were huddled and scruffy, the odd spoke of foliage opportunistically sprouted between basement railings. A cast of characters crossed our path – a man in a suit lifted from a painting by Edward Burra, a woman with a backpack haltingly gazing up, another shuffling with bare legs and a handbag. Were these part of the conceit? That’s the Gingerline effect . It takes a street and then cranks your perception into a state of thrillingly heightened suspicion.
We found the chapel just as the big red doors were being withdrawn and entered solemnly. The atmosphere was hazy with incense. There were tall ‘cups of acceptance’ swirling with oily gin, there were communion wafers. The minimalist Unitarian walls had stained-glass projections. The tables fashioned amidst the pews were black and there was a single stalk of orange neon in the centre. Ruddy Nora, we were in it up to our neck this time. A clash! Candles sputtered in the draught. Hooded figures appeared, faces obscured by silver masks. The Secret Order of the Gingerline!
The sacred root was held aloft and bogus Templar type intonations made us all laugh. Then finally Gingers Forever! went the cry and the tension snapped like garter. The performance over, as ever at these things, this was not the time for timidity. That ole hand-shake has to happen immediately (how very Masonic) so we made friends with our neighbours – one who came via Brockley, the other Tufnell Park (and exotic) and with 80s disco now on the turn-table, we realised those stained-glass projections were somewhat saucier than your average saintly depictions.

Upright shafts of bone were presented to us on black plates and the bone-marrow drenched in parsley and garlic that we had to dig out with sticks was mouth-wateringly primal. There were one or two diners in the shadows who were clearly too squeamish and weak to partake of the ‘initiation’. They stuck to the home baked bread with shallots but even that came with symbolically crimson pomegranate syrup. Pity them, I said as I plunged in my stick, I could eat an entire skeleton.
Then came the ‘purification’, a palate cleansing, bright lettuce and hock broth and I would happily have supped a font full of that too. After the soup came the ‘nourishment’: a generous slab of cod reclining seductively on a counterpane of red lentils littered with chorizo, like the debris of a romp. And I ate up my greens like a good girl (I was finding an endless wealth of empty gut to fill, thank the lord) and the Macon we’d brought was a heavenly match. All the while, the bookseller was itching to tweet, but like a good disciple, he refrained. You must not tell, or hell will have you.
It did anyway. Blame the ‘enlightenment’. Those who love me know I don’t really do pudding and I can leave a Crunchie in the fridge for weeks (yeah, like that actually happens) but this unleavened chocolate almond cake soused in cherry brandy with a virginal lick of marscapone and a ginger crisp as delicate as a baby’s bonnet was pure evil.
Then goddamit, there was ‘fulfillment’ – Red Devil, Ginger Spice and Black Bomber cheese. Christ on a bike this was so much fun. The quality of the grub was stupendous given the space it had come out of and that’s the crux of the thing – you have to trust the Gingerliners completely and in return, you are truly rewarded. No wonder people go back for more. Feeling so reassured is integral to the conspiracy. It’s like going to the Ritz. With horns.
But, the best thing is relinquishing control. Tonight’s motif underlined the allure of the secrecy and community of a Gingerline event but it could have been any theme, any place. This sense of submission has the potential to be seriously addictive. As the red doors closed behind us and we reluctantly caught the last train back to the quiet of our southern suburb snoring in the darkness, the bookseller finally tweeted – “Too bad you missed it, suckers.”

With thanks to https://twitter.com/#!/GreenMop for the photo.
Gingerline.